Pattern of the Month

Instructions for her ribbed cardigan

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back

Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 62 / 68 / 74 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k2, * p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p2, * k1, p2; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: k2, * p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: p2, * drop the next stitch down 3 rows down, then knit into the stitch together with the 3 loops above it as one stitch, p2; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Back measures 14 / 14½ / 14½ inches down the centre.

With right side facing and keeping the pattern correct, shape armholes by casting off 3 / 4 / 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 48 / 52 / 88 stitches remain

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Back measures 22 / 22½ / 22½ inches down the centre.

With right side facing and keeping the pattern correct, shape shoulders by casting off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 8 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 18 / 20 / 22 stitches.

Left Front

Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 29 / 32 / 35 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and work straight in the rib pattern as for the Back until the Front matches the Back at the side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole and front edge as follows:

Next row: cast off 3 / 4 / 4 stitches; pattern to the last 2 stitches; k2tog.

Continue the shaping, by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning (armhole edge) of the next 4 / 4 / 4 alternate rows, and at the same time, shape the neck edge by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on every following 4th row.

When the armhole shapings are complete, keep this edge straight but continue shaping the front/neck edge on every following 4th row as before, until 15 / 16 / 18 stitches remain. Then work straight until Front matches Back at the armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 8 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Right Front

Work to correspond with the left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 32 / 35 / 35 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and work in the rib pattern as for the Back, shaping the sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th, and then every following 10th row until there are 44 / 47 / 47 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Sleeve seam measures 16½ / 16½ / 17 inches.

With right sides facing shape top by casting off 3 / 4 / 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 12 / 13 / 13 stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Do not press.

When making up, use flat edge to edge seams, and perhaps a toning 3 or 4ply yarn for the sewing

Front Border:
Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 8 stitches, and work a strip in k1/p1 rib, (adding buttonholes as below), to fit up the right front and all the way around the neck and down the left front when slightly stretched. Make 7 buttonsholes up the right side, the first to come ½ inch up from the lower edge, and the 7th to come just below the start of the neck shaping, with the other 5 spaced evenly between.
To make a buttonhole: rib 3, cast off 2, rib 3; then cast on 2 stitches over those cast off on the next row.
Sew the border in position as you go.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Carefully press the seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
17 / 18 / 19 x 2oz balls in colour "Water Green".

Pair each of No 5 (5½ mm) and No 3 (6½mm) needles.

7 buttons.

Tension

14sts and 18 rows to four inches on No 3 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 22½ / 23 / 23 inches;
sleeve seam: 16½ / 16½ / 17 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a super chunky/bulky pure wool yarn.
It came in 2oz (57g) hanks at about 54 yards or 49 metres.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.

Instructions for his ribbed sweater

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back

**
Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 71 / 74 / 77 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k2, * p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p2, * k1, p2; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: k2, * p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: p2, * drop the next stitch down 3 rows down, then knit into the stitch together with the 3 loops above it as one stitch, p2; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Back measures 15 / 15½ / 15½ inches down the centre.

With right side facing and keeping the pattern correct, shape armholes by casting off 3 / 3 / 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 57 / 60 / 63 stitches remain.
**

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Back measures 24½ / 25 / 25 inches down the centre.

With right side facing and keeping the pattern correct, shape shoulders by casting off 8 / 9 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 9 / 9 / 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 23 / 24 / 25 stitches.

Front

Work as for the Back from ** to ** .

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Front measures 21½ / 22 / 22 inches down the centre.

With right side facing, shape neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 22 / 23 / 24. Turn, leaving the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue on these 22 / 23 / 24 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following alternate row until 17 / 18 / 19 stitches remain.

Continue working straight in the pattern until Front matches Back at the armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 / 9 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 9 / 9 / 10 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, rejoin the wool to the remaining stitches; cast off the centre 13 / 14 / 15 stitches, and pattern to the end.
Finish to correspond with the other shoulder.

Sleeves

Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 32 / 36 / 36 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 3 / 2 / 2 stitches across on the last row.
[35 / 38 / 38 sts].

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and work in the rib pattern as for the Back, shaping the sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 11th, and then every following 8th row until there are 51 / 54 / 54 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Sleeve seam measures 18½ / 19 / 19 inches.

With right sides facing shape top by casting off 3 / 3 / 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 17 / 22 / 22 stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end every row until 13 / 14 / 14 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck Ribbing

Join the right shoulder seam.
Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles, with right side facing, start at the left shoulder and pick up and knit 17 stitches down left side of neck 13 / 14 / 15 stitches across centre front, 17 stitches up right side of neck, and 23 / 24 / 25 stitches across back.
[70 / 72 / 74 sts].

Work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Do not press.
When making up, use flat edge to edge seams, and perhaps a toning 3 or 4ply yarn for the sewing.
Join the left shoulder and neck ribbing.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Fold the neck ribbing in half to the wrong side and slip-hem in position.
Carefully press the seams lightly.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
21 / 23 / 23 x 2oz balls in colour "Water Green".

Pair each of No 5 (5½ mm) and No 3 (6½mm) needles.

Tension

14sts and 18 rows to four inches on No 3 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
37-38 / 39-40 / 41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 / 25½ / 25½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18½ / 19 / 19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a super chunky/bulky pure wool yarn.
It came in 2oz (57g) hanks at about 54 yards or 49 metres.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

As this is a bag, you have lots of scope as to what yarn you use, and you don't need to worry too much about the tension - it will simply affect the final dimensions of the bag.

Front and Back alike

Using No 12 (2¾ mm) needles and blue colour (B) cast on 74 stitches, and work in 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 * m1, rib 4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; m1, rib 3.
[92 sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work as follows:
Next row: * knit.
Next row: p2, * k1w, k6, k1w, p2; repeat from * to end.
Next row: Using gold colour (G), k2, * sl1 dropping the extra loop (made with the k1w of previous round), k6, sl1 dropping the extra loop, k2; repeat from * to end.

Now continue in pattern as follows:
1st and 3rd rows (wrong side facing): using G, p2, * sl1, yb, k6, yfd, sl1, p2; repeat from * to end.
2nd and 4th rows: using G, k2, * sl1, yfd, p6, yb, sl1, k2; repeat from * to end.
5th row: using G, p2, * sl1, yb, k1w, k4, k1w, yfd, sl1, p2; repeat from * to end.
6th row: using B, k2, * drop the slipped stitch and hold to front of work, slip the next stitch dropping the extra loop as before, k2, pick up and knit the slipped stitch taking care not to twist the stitch; knit the 5th loop on left needle leaving that loop on the needle, k2, sl1 as before, then drop the long loop off needle, k2; repeat from * to end.

[Editor's Note: Row 6 seems a lot more complicated to describe than it is to execute. You are basically working a known technique for cabling single stitches without using a cable needle. This has the effect of crossing the "long" stitches to the right and to the left as you can see them in the photo.

7th and 9th rows: using B, as 1st.
8th and 10th rows: using B, as 2nd.
11th row: using B as 5th.
12th row: using G, as 6th.

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Repeat them until work measures 13 inches from the start of the pattern, ending with a 6th pattern row.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press pieces lightly on the wrong side following the instructions on the ball band omitting k1/p1 rib.
Join cast-off edges, then join side seams for 8 inches from the lower edge, leaving a side slit.
Fold rib in half and catch down lightly on the wrong side; insert rulers and neaten ends.
With 5 strands of each colour 108 inches long for each handle, make a tightly twisted cord. Neaten ends, then sew in position from base of side slit to upper edge on each side.
Press seams lightly.

[Editor's Note:You might want to think about what threads you use for the handles. They really need to be quite strong and not stretchy, so you may want to use a different fibre from the one with which you made the bag.

Materials

Double Knitting 50g balls:
3 in Blue (B)
2 in gold (G)

A pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.

Wooden rulers to stiffen the top edge.
[Editor's note: Innovative!]

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

Width: 13½ inches
Depth: 14 inches

Abbreviations:

k: knit
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it.
sl1: slip 1 stitch
yfd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work.
yb: yarn back - take the yarn to the back of the work.
k1w: knit 1 stitch wrapping the yarn twice round the needle.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.

Instructions

The picot stitch as follows:
1 dc, 3 ch; 1 dc in 4 ch space of previous row; 1 dc in 2nd of 3 tr of previous row.

Back and Front squares (make 2 alike)

On a foundation chain of 7 ch, closed into a ring with a slip stitch, work a square as follows:

1st row: 3 ch, (counts as first treble), 19 tr in circle.
2nd row: 1 ch, ** 7 ch, miss 3 tr of previous row, 1 dc in each of next 2 tr **; repeat from ** to **, 3 times in all, and end with 7 ch, miss 3 tr of previous row, 1 dc on next tr and 1 slst on 1st ch at the beginning of the row. [You have made 4 spaces].
3rd row: 1 slst in 1st space, 4 ch (counts as first double treble), 10 dtr in same space; ** 5 ch, 11 dtr in next space **; repeat from ** to **, and end with 5 ch and 1 slst in 4th ch at the beginning of the row
4th row: 4 ch, (counts as first dtr), 1 dtr on same stitch; 1 dtr on each of the following 9 dtr of the previous row; 2 dtr on last dtr of group of previous row; ** work (5 ch, 1 dc, 5 ch) in next space; 2 dtr on 1st dtr of previous row, 1 dtr on each of the following owing 9 dtr, 2 dtr on last dtr, 5 ch **; repeat from ** to **, and end with 1 dc, 5 ch, and 1 slst on 4th ch at the beginning of the row.
5th row: 4 ch (counts as 1st dtr), 1 dtr on same tr, 1 dtr on each of the following 11 dtr of previous row, 2 dtr on last dtr **; 7 ch, 2 dtr on next dtr, 1 dtr on each of the following 11 dtr, 2 dtr on last dtr **; repeat from ** to **, and end with 7 ch and 1 slst on the 4th ch of the beginning of the row.
6th row: ** work (3 ch, miss 1 dtr of previous row, 1 dc on next dtr) 7 times. In the next space, work 4 ch, 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr, 4 ch, and then 1 dc in next dtr **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst in the 1st space of the row.
7th row: ** work (3 ch, 1 dc in next space) , repeat 6 times. Then 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr. In the next space work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr and then 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr;then 4 ch and 1 dc in the 1st of the next 7 spaces; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst in the 1st space at the beginning of the row.
8th row: ** work (3 ch, 1 dc in next space) 5 times; 4 ch 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr, 4 ch, miss 1 tr, then 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, then 1 dc into the 1st of next 6 spaces **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst in the 1st space at the beginning of the row .
9th row: ** (3 ch, 1 dc in next space) 4 times; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of
following 3 tr; then 4 ch, l tr on each of the following 2 tr. In next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr; then 4 ch, 1 tr on the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 dc into the 1st of the next 5 spaces **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst in the 1st space of the row.
10th row: ** (3 ch, 1 dc in next space) 3 times; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch.
In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 4 ch, miss 1 tr, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 dc into the 1st of the following 4 spaces**; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst into the 1st space of the row.
11th row: ** (3 ch, 1 dc into the next space) twice; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr; 4 ch, then 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, l dc into the 1st of the next 3 spaces**; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst into the 1st space of the row.
12th row: ** 3 ch, 1 dc into next space, 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; 4 ch, miss 1 tr of previous row, 1 tr in each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr in each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr, on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in the 1st of the 2 spaces **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst into the 1st space of the row.
13th row: ** (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 3 times; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr; (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 3 times; 4 ch, 1 dc in into the next space **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 4 ch and 1 slst into the 1st slst at the beginning of the row.
14th row: 3 ch, (counts as first treble); ** 1 tr in the 1st following ch; (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 4 times; 4 ch. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; 4 ch, miss 1 tr, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 3 times; 4 ch, 1 tr in next 4th ch, 1 tr on dc of previous row [note that this will be a tr stitch on previous row for the 16th and 18th rows] **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 4 ch, 1 tr on the following 4th ch, and then 1 slst in the 3rd ch at the of beginning of the row.
15th row:
3 ch, (counts as first treble); 1 tr on next tr; ** (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 4 times; 4 ch,, 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr. In the corner space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 1 tr on the following 2 tr;
(4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 5 times**; repeat from ** to **, ending with 4 ch, 1 tr, on 1st of 3 tr of the previous row, and 1 slst into 3rd ch at the beginning of the row.
16th row: Work as for 14th row.
17th row: Work as for 15th row.
18th row: Work as for 14th row.
19th row: Work as for 15th row.

Straps

Starting on 3rd group of 3 tr from the corner of the square, work 3 tr on 3 tr of the previous row; 4 ch, 3 tr on 3 tr of the previous row; 3 ch to turn (counts as 1st tr).
Continue working straight on these stitches until the desired length is obtained.
Fasten off.
Work other strap to match.

Side bands

These 2 bands form sides of vest

On one side of the front square work as follows:
3 ch, (counts as 1 tr), 2 ch, ** 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr of previous row, 4 ch **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 tr on last tr of row.

Repeat this row until side band measures 4¾ / 5¼ / 6¾ inches; [12 / 13½ / 16½ cm]. Fasten off.

Work the other side of square in same way.

To Make Up

Slip stitch the sides and back together.
Sew the straps to the back with invisible stitches.
Work one row of picot around the neck, the armholes and the bottom of the vest
Press lightly on the wrong side.

Materials

Fine fingering cotton No 5:
4 x 50g balls (200m per ball)

Nos 14 (2mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Knitting gauge equivalent approximately
30sts x 40 rows

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 / 34 / 35 inches.
[84 / 87 / 93 cm.]

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
dtr: double treble
slst: slip stitch
sp: space

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a mercerised cotton perlé 4 ply; about 200m to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.