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August 2026

Cottage Bag

A knitted bag with an interesting "wave-stitch" pattern giving the appearance of a woven textile - similar to one I had when I was at school (yes - that retro!).

Instructions.

As this is a bag, you have lots of scope as to what yarn you use, and you don't need to worry too much about the tension - it will simply affect the final dimensions of the bag.

Front and Back alike

Using No 12 (2¾ mm) needles and blue colour (B) cast on 74 stitches, and work in 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 * m1, rib 4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; m1, rib 3.
[92 sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work as follows:
Next row: * knit.
Next row: p2, * k1w, k6, k1w, p2; repeat from * to end.
Next row: Using gold colour (G), k2, * sl1 dropping the extra loop (made with the k1w of previous round), k6, sl1 dropping the extra loop, k2; repeat from * to end.

Now continue in pattern as follows:
1st and 3rd rows (wrong side facing): using G, p2, * sl1, yb, k6, yfd, sl1, p2; repeat from * to end.
2nd and 4th rows: using G, k2, * sl1, yfd, p6, yb, sl1, k2; repeat from * to end.
5th row: using G, p2, * sl1, yb, k1w, k4, k1w, yfd, sl1, p2; repeat from * to end.
6th row: using B, k2, * drop the slipped stitch and hold to front of work, slip the next stitch dropping the extra loop as before, k2, pick up and knit the slipped stitch taking care not to twist the stitch; knit the 5th loop on left needle leaving that loop on the needle, k2, sl1 as before, then drop the long loop off needle, k2; repeat from * to end.

[Editor's Note: Row 6 seems a lot more complicated to describe than it is to execute. You are basically working a known technique for cabling single stitches without using a cable needle. This has the effect of crossing the "long" stitches to the right and to the left as you can see them in the photo.

7th and 9th rows: using B, as 1st.
8th and 10th rows: using B, as 2nd.
11th row: using B as 5th.
12th row: using G, as 6th.

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Repeat them until work measures 13 inches from the start of the pattern, ending with a 6th pattern row.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press pieces lightly on the wrong side following the instructions on the ball band omitting k1/p1 rib.
Join cast-off edges, then join side seams for 8 inches from the lower edge, leaving a side slit.
Fold rib in half and catch down lightly on the wrong side; insert rulers and neaten ends.
With 5 strands of each colour 108 inches long for each handle, make a tightly twisted cord. Neaten ends, then sew in position from base of side slit to upper edge on each side.
Press seams lightly.

[Editor's Note:You might want to think about what threads you use for the handles. They really need to be quite strong and not stretchy, so you may want to use a different fibre from the one with which you made the bag.

Materials

Double Knitting 50g balls:
3 in Blue (B)
2 in gold (G)

A pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.

Wooden rulers to stiffen the top edge.
[Editor's note: Innovative!]

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

Width: 13½ inches
Depth: 14 inches

Abbreviations:

k: knit
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it.
sl1: slip 1 stitch
yfd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work.
yb: yarn back - take the yarn to the back of the work.
k1w: knit 1 stitch wrapping the yarn twice round the needle.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.


Cottage Bag Variation

I wanted to try out this stitch so I made a bag of a somewhat simpler design - just two rectangles seamed up the sides. I used 3 different colours in a cotton chunky yarn (as I had some left over from another project) rather than the double knit for which it was designed, and you can see I also cut down the number of stitches - they need to be a multiple of 10 plus 2 for the pattern to work.
I made a single Kumihimo braid bag strap, I had no side slits, and I did not reinforce the opening with rulers.

Posted by Christina on August 1, 2026 at 12:21 | Permalink

July 2026

Summer vest in crochet

We have been in need of cool this summer, with erratic weather patterns producing one heatwave after another. Hopefully this will fit the bill - although don't forget the sunscreen and probably a thin cover up for protection from extreme UV. (We never used to worry so much about UV in the seventies, despite the "hole in the ozone layer", and we all went for the mahogany tan to look like the model in the photo - but please do think about it now.)

Instructions

The picot stitch as follows:
1 dc, 3 ch; 1 dc in 4 ch space of previous row; 1 dc in 2nd of 3 tr of previous row.

Back and Front squares (make 2 alike)

On a foundation chain of 7 ch, closed into a ring with a slip stitch, work a square as follows:

1st row: 3 ch, (counts as first treble), 19 tr in circle.
2nd row: 1 ch, ** 7 ch, miss 3 tr of previous row, 1 dc in each of next 2 tr **; repeat from ** to **, 3 times in all, and end with 7 ch, miss 3 tr of previous row, 1 dc on next tr and 1 slst on 1st ch at the beginning of the row. [You have made 4 spaces].
3rd row: 1 slst in 1st space, 4 ch (counts as first double treble), 10 dtr in same space; ** 5 ch, 11 dtr in next space **; repeat from ** to **, and end with 5 ch and 1 slst in 4th ch at the beginning of the row
4th row
: 4 ch, (counts as first dtr), 1 dtr on same stitch; 1 dtr on each of the following 9 dtr of the previous row; 2 dtr on last dtr of group of previous row; ** work (5 ch, 1 dc, 5 ch) in next space; 2 dtr on 1st dtr of previous row, 1 dtr on each of the following owing 9 dtr, 2 dtr on last dtr, 5 ch **; repeat from ** to **, and end with 1 dc, 5 ch, and 1 slst on 4th ch at the beginning of the row.
5th row: 4 ch (counts as 1st dtr), 1 dtr on same tr, 1 dtr on each of the following 11 dtr of previous row, 2 dtr on last dtr **; 7 ch, 2 dtr on next dtr, 1 dtr on each of the following 11 dtr, 2 dtr on last dtr **; repeat from ** to **, and end with 7 ch and 1 slst on the 4th ch of the beginning of the row.
6th row: ** work (3 ch, miss 1 dtr of previous row, 1 dc on next dtr) 7 times. In the next space, work 4 ch, 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr, 4 ch, and then 1 dc in next dtr **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst in the 1st space of the row.
7th row: ** work (3 ch, 1 dc in next space) , repeat 6 times. Then 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr. In the next space work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr and then 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr;then 4 ch and 1 dc in the 1st of the next 7 spaces; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst in the 1st space at the beginning of the row.
8th row: ** work (3 ch, 1 dc in next space) 5 times; 4 ch 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr, 4 ch, miss 1 tr, then 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, then 1 dc into the 1st of next 6 spaces **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst in the 1st space at the beginning of the row .
9th row: ** (3 ch, 1 dc in next space) 4 times; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of
following 3 tr; then 4 ch, l tr on each of the following 2 tr. In next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr; then 4 ch, 1 tr on the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 dc into the 1st of the next 5 spaces **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst in the 1st space of the row.
10th row: ** (3 ch, 1 dc in next space) 3 times; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch.
In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 4 ch, miss 1 tr, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 dc into the 1st of the following 4 spaces**; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst into the 1st space of the row.
11th row: ** (3 ch, 1 dc into the next space) twice; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr; 4 ch, then 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; then 4 ch, l dc into the 1st of the next 3 spaces**; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst into the 1st space of the row.
12th row: ** 3 ch, 1 dc into next space, 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; 4 ch, miss 1 tr of previous row, 1 tr in each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr in each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 tr, on each of the following 3 tr, 4 ch, 1 dc in the 1st of the 2 spaces **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 slst into the 1st space of the row.
13th row: ** (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 3 times; 4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr; (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 3 times; 4 ch, 1 dc in into the next space **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 4 ch and 1 slst into the 1st slst at the beginning of the row.
14th row: 3 ch, (counts as first treble); ** 1 tr in the 1st following ch; (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 4 times; 4 ch. In the next space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; 4 ch, miss 1 tr, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr; (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 3 times; 4 ch, 1 tr in next 4th ch, 1 tr on dc of previous row [note that this will be a tr stitch on previous row for the 16th and 18th rows] **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 4 ch, 1 tr on the following 4th ch, and then 1 slst in the 3rd ch at the of beginning of the row.
15th row:
3 ch, (counts as first treble); 1 tr on next tr; ** (4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 4 times; 4 ch,, 1 tr on each of the following 2 tr. In the corner space, work 2 tr, 4 ch, 2 tr; then 1 tr on the following 2 tr;
(4 ch, 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr) 5 times**; repeat from ** to **, ending with 4 ch, 1 tr, on 1st of 3 tr of the previous row, and 1 slst into 3rd ch at the beginning of the row.
16th row: Work as for 14th row.
17th row: Work as for 15th row.
18th row: Work as for 14th row.
19th row: Work as for 15th row.

Straps

Starting on 3rd group of 3 tr from the corner of the square, work 3 tr on 3 tr of the previous row; 4 ch, 3 tr on 3 tr of the previous row; 3 ch to turn (counts as 1st tr).
Continue working straight on these stitches until the desired length is obtained.
Fasten off.
Work other strap to match.

Side bands

These 2 bands form sides of vest

On one side of the front square work as follows:
3 ch, (counts as 1 tr), 2 ch, ** 1 tr on each of the following 3 tr of previous row, 4 ch **; repeat from ** to **, ending with 1 tr on last tr of row.

Repeat this row until side band measures 4¾ / 5¼ / 6¾ inches; [12 / 13½ / 16½ cm]. Fasten off.

Work the other side of square in same way.

To Make Up

Slip stitch the sides and back together.
Sew the straps to the back with invisible stitches.
Work one row of picot around the neck, the armholes and the bottom of the vest
Press lightly on the wrong side.

Materials

Fine fingering cotton No 5:
4 x 50g balls (200m per ball)

Nos 14 (2mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Knitting gauge equivalent approximately
30sts x 40 rows

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 / 34 / 35 inches.
[84 / 87 / 93 cm.]

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble
dtr: double treble
slst: slip stitch
sp: space

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a mercerised cotton perlé 4 ply; about 200m to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.

Posted by Christina on July 1, 2026 at 06:22 | Permalink

June 2026

Ruched jumper

"Looking back for fashion..."
This is a design from the mid 1940s which was reprinted on the cusp of the 70s-80s, at which time there was a definite forties revival - pencil skirts, very square shoulders, and pill box hats - a very "new look" for the era, and presaging the massive shoulder pads yet to come!
It is an interesting design but the really sad thing is that in reissuing it, they reprinted the instructions precisely as they were originally which means there is only one size option. So... if you long for vintage designs, but have a more ample (or some might say normal) figure you must look to the likes of Susan Crawford who does a splendid job with these old patterns, spending a lot of time researching, revamping, and testing to provide new versions with a good range of sizes.
Meanwhile here it is for any suitably post-war figures...

Instructions.

The instructions are for 2 contrast colours (the original has 3) - 1970s sophisticated neutrals of the era, or 1940s gay stripes providing a striking contrast with the black background.
With a neutral canvas you could, of course, try a different colour for every stripe... "such fun"...

Back

**
Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 101 stitches, and work in slip-stitch pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k1, * yfd, sl1p, yb, k1; repeat from to end.

These 2 rows form the slipstitch pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows until Back measures 4½ inches, ending with a 1st row.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and work stripe band as follows:

Next row (right side facing): using first contrast (A), k1, * (k1, p1, k1) all in the next stitch, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next row: using A, knit.
Next row: using A, purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.

Next row: using A, k1, * sl1p, k2tog, psso, k1; repeat from * to end.

These last 10 rows form the stripe band.

Using M, starting with a 2nd row, work 28 rows in slipstitch pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row, taking the increased stitches into the pattern. [115 sts]

Using second contrast (B), work 10 rows of stripe band.

Using M, starting with a 2nd row, work 28 rows in slipstitch pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row, taking the increased stitches into the pattern. [129 sts]

Using A, work 10 rows of stripe band.

Using M, starting with 2nd row, work 2 rows in slipstitch pattern.
**

Continue in M and slipstitch pattern, at the same time shape armholes by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 93 stitches remain.

Work 1 row, thus completing 28 rows in slipstitch pattern.

Using B, work 10 rows of stripe band.

Using M, starting with a 2nd row, work 28 rows in slipstitch pattern.

Using A, work 10 rows of stripe band.
***

Using M, starting with a 2nd row, work in slipstitch pattern until Back measures 18½ inches, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 8 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 41 stitches.

Front

Work as for Back from ** to ***.

Using M, starting with a 2nd row, work in slipstitch pattern and divide for neck as follows:
Next row: pattern 35, and leave these stitches on a spare needle, cast off 23, pattern to end.
Next row: pattern to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Continue on these 34 stitches for the right side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 26 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shapings, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 8 stitches.

With wrong side facing, rejoin M to the remaining stitches for the left side and finish to correspond with right side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and M, cast on 67 stitches and work as for Back from ** to ** noting that there will be 95 stitches in place of 129 stitches at this point.

Continue in M and slipstitch pattern, at the same time shape top by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 59 stitches remain.
Work 1 row, thus completing 28 rows in slipstitch pattern.

Using B, work 10 rows of stripe band without decreasing at the side edges.

Using M, starting with a 2nd row, work 28 rows in slipstitch pattern decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row . [31 sts]

Using A, work 10 rows of stripe band without decreasing at the side edges.

Using M,starting with a 2nd row, work in slipstitch pattern, casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of every row until 7 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

If necessary, press parts very lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Join shoulders for 2½ inches from armhole edge.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert Sleeves gathering extra fullness across the top.
With right side facing, and using M and No 11 (3mm) crochet hook, work 1 row of double crochet all round the neck and shoulder openings. [Editor's Note: This is English double crochet]
Sew a press stud at the neck edge of each shoulder opening.
Press seams.

Materials

25g balls of 3ply pure wool (possibly about 100m per ball):
6 in main shade, and 2 in each of 2 contrasts.

Pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

28 stitches x 36 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.

Size matters

One size:
to fit chest 32-34
inches (81-86cm);
length from top of shoulders: 19
inches, (48cm);
sleeve seam: 11
inches, (28cm).

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
sl1p: slip 1 stitch purlwise
sl1k: slip 1 stitch knitwise
yfd: yarn forward - move the yarn to the front of the work
yb: yarn back - move the yarn to the back of the work
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
psso: pass the slipped stitch over (decreases a stitch)

M = main shade
A = first contrast
B = second contrast

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.

Posted by Christina on June 1, 2026 at 06:19 | Permalink

Helpful Stuff

  • Abbreviations
  • Needle sizes
  • Hook sizes
  • Yarns and threads
  • Terminology
  • Stitch Dictionary
    (KnittingontheNet)
  • Knitter's graph paper
    (print your own)
  • Mobius Cast On
  • Cottage Bag
  • Summer vest in crochet
  • Ruched jumper
  • Cucumber Cool
  • Easter Egg (cosies)
  • Informal Day Wear
  • Knit for Travel
  • Well-chosen accessories
  • On Guard!
  • Swagger Coat
  • Fireside Crochet Cushions
  • Pattern Mix for Two

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