Pattern of the Month

Gay Stripes for Spring

Despite the limitations of the illustration, I found this design very interesting due to the way it's knitted - I hope you do too. From the tension, it seems to be a 4 ply fingering weight, and the colours are indicated as brown, green, coral, and fawn; the "main" colour for the collar etc seems to be the green - very 1930s, although the actual shade can only be guessed at (unless you have a "Beehive Shetland Floss" shade card hidden away somewhere).
This is a pre-war design, (just) and definitely before rationing, but would be a good way to use up smaller amounts of wool.

Instructions

The short-sleeved coat-jumper is knitted sideways-on in a pattern that achieves a Fair-Isle effect with considerably less complication than the genuine thing. The original colour-scheme is charming - oatmeal striped with coral, rust and light green.

Body

[Editor's note: The stripes not only vary in colour alone but also in texture; some bands are in stocking stitch and some in garter stitch.
The pattern is written out below but I have also created the whole thing on a chart so you can see what shape and pattern you are aiming at.
Click HERE to find the charts
You can, of course, change the whole pattern sequence to whatever you like, but the sleeves are precisely pattern matched to the body, which might be quite tricky to achieve if you change the pattern.]

The body part of the cardigan is worked sideways, in one piece.
Start with the left side.

Using green (G) wool, cast on 125 stitches.
1st row (right side): knit .
2nd row(wrong side): knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more.

Change to oatmeal (F) wool.
11th row: knit .
12th row: purl.
13th row: k3F, * join in coral (C), k1C, take the coral wool along the back of the work, k4F; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, k2F.
14th row: p6F, * p1C, p4F; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1C, p3F.
15th row: * k2F, k3C; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2F, k2C, k1F.
16th row: cast on 4, p4F, * p3C, p2F; repeat from * to end.
17th row: knit in oatmeal (F).
18th row: cast on 4, purl to end in oatmeal (F).
19th row: join in green wool, knit.
20th row: cast on 4, purl to end.
21st row: knit.
22nd row: purl.
23rd row: join in brown wool (B), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
24th row: knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

27th row: join in oatmeal (F), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
28th row: purl.

Now continue in pattern thus:
1st row: join in coral wool (C), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
2nd row: knit .
3rd row: join in oatmeal (F) wool, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
4th row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

7th row: join in brown (B), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
8th row: knit .
9th row: join in green (G), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
10th row: knit .
Repeat 9th and 10th rows twice more.

15th row: Join in oatmeal (F), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
16th row: purl.
17th row: k3F, * k1C, k4F; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2togF.
18th row: p6F, * p1C, p4F; repeat from *to last 4 stitches, p1C, p3F.
19th row: * k2F, k3C; repeat from * to the last 5 stitches, k3F, k2togF.
20th row: p4F, * p3C, p2F; repeat from * to end.
21st row: with oatmeal wool (F), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
22nd row: purl.
23rd row: with green wool (G), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
24th row: purl.
Repeat 23rd and 24th rows once more.

27th row: with brown wool (B), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
28th row: knit .
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

Join in oatmeal wool,
31st row: knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
32nd row: purl.

These last 32 rows form the pattern. Repeat them once more, continuing to decrease at the armhole edge.

Then repeat them twice more, decreasing on the next (coral coloured) row and then increasing instead of decreasing at the armhole edge on alternate rows thereafter.
Repeat the first 10 rows again, still increasing at the armhole edge.

Now work the following 16 rows straight, at which point you will have completed 4 green stocking stitch rows; then join in oatmeal (F) wool and start to reverse the pattern for the other half of the jumper as follows:

1st row: knit .
2nd row: purl.
3rd row: * k2F, k3C; repeat from * ending k2F.
4th row: p2F, *p3C, p2F; repeat from * to end.
5th row:k3F, * k1C, k4F; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1C, k3F.
6th row: p3F, * p1C, p4F; repeat from * to the last 4 stitches, p1C, p3F.
7th row: knit to end in oatmeal (F).
8th row: purl to end in oatmeal (F).
Knit the next 6 rows in green (G).

**
15th row: join in brown (B), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
16th row: knit .
17th row: join in oatmeal (F), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
18th row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
21st row: join in coral (C) wool and knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. 22nd row: knit .
23rd row:: Join in oatmeal (F), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
24th row: purl.
25th row: join in brown (B), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
26th row: knit .
Repeat last 2 rows once more.

29th row: join in green (G), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
30th row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

33rd row: join in oatmeal (F), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
34th row: purl.
35th row: * k2F, k3C; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, k2togF. 36th row: p1F, * p3C, p2F; repeat from * to end.
37th row: k3F, * k1C, k4F; repeat from * to the last 3 stitches, k1C, k2togF.
38th row: p1F, * p1C, p4F; repeat from * to the last 4 stitches, p1C, p3F.
39th row: knit in F to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
40th row: purl in F.
41st row: join in green (G), knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
42nd row: knit in G.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.

Now repeat from ** once, then work 8 more rows, decreasing at the
at armhole edge.
Still keeping the same colour sequence, work 72 more rows, increasing instead of decreasing at the armhole edge.
Work one row straight. At this point you will have completed 3 green (G) stocking stitch rows.

Here shape for the neck:
Working the 4th row of green (G), cast off 4, purl to end.
Change to oatmeal (F) wool, and knit to end.

Next row: Cast off 4, purl to end.
Next row: Work in coral (C) and oatmeal (F) pattern as before.
Next row: Cast off 4, work in pattern to end.
Finish off coral and oatmeal stripe, then join in green.

Garter stitch border in green (G):
1st row: increase in the first stitch, knit to end.
2nd row: knit .
Repeat these 2 rows once more.

5th row (make buttonholes): increase in the first stitch, k7, * cast off 3, k6; repeat from * to the last 6 stitches, cast off 3, k3.
6th row: knit , casting on 3 stitches to replace each group cast off
in the previous row.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows twice more. Cast off.

Neaten the straight (lower) edge of jumper: at the right side edge of the knitting, with right side facing (which is the lower edge of the cardigan itself), pick up 278 stitches, beginning and ending inside the green border, and using green wool.

1st row: increase in the 1st stitch, knit to the last stitch, increase in last stitch.
2nd row: knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows three times more, then the first row once.
Cast off.

Left Sleeve

[Editor's note: Here, you are creating a raglan sleeve, knitted sideways, making it so the pattern will match when sewed to the body piece. The left and right sleeves are mirror images of each other - not identical - in terms of the colour patterning. It's worth noting, in case you are confused, (as I was), that all the increases are on one of the side edges of the knitting, which is referred to as the "armhole edge". You can refer to the charts which will hopefully help.]

Using oatmeal (F) wool, cast on 12 stitches.
1st row: join in coral (C) wool, knit , increasing in the last stitch.
2nd row: knit.
3rd row: join in oatmeal (F) knit , increasing in the last stitch.
4th row: purl.
5th row:join in brown (B) knit , increasing in the last stitch.
6th row: knit .
Repeat the 5th and 6th rows again.

Work the next 4 rows in green (G) stocking stitch, increasing in the last stitch of the row, as before, in the 1st and 3rd rows of these 4 rows.

Change to oatmeal (F), work 2 rows in stocking stitch, increasing in the last stitch of the 1st row.

15th row: * k2F, k3C; repeat from to * last the 4 stitches k2F, k2C,
increasing in the last stitch.
16th row: * p3C, p2F; repeat from * to end.
17th row: k3F, * k1C, k4F; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, k1C, using F, increase in the last stitch.
18th row: p2F, * p1C, p4F; repeat from * to the last 4 stitches, p1C, p3F.
Work 2 rows in oatmeal (F) stocking stitch, increasing at the end of the first row.
Join in green (G) and work 6 rows of garter stitch, increasing at the armhole edge, as before, on the 1st, 3rd and 5th rows.
Join in brown (B) and work 2 rows in garter stitch, increasing as before on the 1st row.
Join in oatmeal (F) wool and work 4 rows in stocking stitch, increasing at the armhole edge on the 1st and 3rd rows.

Repeat from 1st row again, then from 1st to 8th rows inclusive.
Still keeping in pattern, decrease at the neck edge on the next and the following 4th row twice, (3 stitches decreased), work one row, then increase at neck edge in next and the following 2 alternate rows (3 stitches increased).
Work one row straight.
Now keeping pattern as before, decrease at the armhole edge on the next and every following alternate row until 12 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Finish off the coloured ends, then work on the sleeve edging.
With right side of work towards you, pick up 82 stitches along the (straight) sleeve edge.
Using green (G) wool, work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Right Sleeve

Using oatmeal (F) wool, cast on 12 stitches.
1st row: knit, increasing in the last stitch.
2nd row: purl.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows once more.

5th row: join in brown (B), knit , increasing in the last stitch.
6th row: knit.
7th row: join in green (G), knit , increasing in the last stitch.
8th row: knit.
Repeat the 7th and 8th rows twice more.

13th row: join in oatmeal (F) , knit , increasing in the last stitch.
14th row: purl.
15th row: k3F, * k1C, k4F; repeat from to * to end, increasing in the last stitch.
16th row: p6F, * p1C, p4F; repeat from * to the last 4 stitches, p1C, p3F.
17th row: * k2F, k3C; repeat from * to the last 5 stitches, k2F, k3C, increasing in the last stitch.
18th row: p4C, * p2F, p3C; repeat from * to end.
19th row: knit in oatmeal (F), increasing in the last stitch.
20th row: purl.
21st row: join in green (G), knit , increasing in the last stitch.
22nd row: knit .
Repeat 21st and 22nd rows once more.

25th row: join in brown (B), knit , increasing in the last stitch.
26th row: knit .
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

29th row: join in oatmeal (F), increasing in the last stitch.
30th row: purl.
31st row: join in coral (C), knit , increasing in the last stitch.
32nd row: knit .

Repeat these 32 rows once more, then 1st to 8th rows inclusive again.

Now, keeping colour sequence as before, decrease at the neck edge on the next and the following 2 alternate rows, (3 stitches decreased); work one row straight, then increase on the next and the following 4th row twice at the same edge (3 stitches increased).
Work one row straight.
Still keeping in pattern, decrease at the armhole edge on the next and every following alternate row until 12 stitches remain.
Cast off.
Finish as for left sleeve.

Collar

Using green wool, cast on 25 stitches and knit 2 rows.
3rd row: knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
4th row: knit .
Repeat the last 2 rows three times more.

* Knit 11 rows.
Next row: k14; turn, knit 2 rows.
Repeat from * 11 times.
Knit 11 rows.

Next row: knit , increasing in the first stitch.
Next row: knit .
Repeat the last 2 rows three times more.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press pieces lightly under a damp cloth - or as instructed on ball band.
Sew together side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves, taking care to
make the stripes match at the shoulder seams.
Stitch collar to neck edge, leaving half an inch free at each side of the front to allow buttons to fasten easily.
Sew on buttons to match buttonholes.

Materials

Shetland Fingering (4 ply weight):
8 ozs in green,
3 ozs in oatmeal,
1 oz in coral,
1 oz in rust

13 small buttons.

Tension

28sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size:
chest 34-36 inches; length from top of shoulder: 22 inches; sleeve seam: 3 inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
k/p2tog: knit/purl 2 stitches together to decrease a stitch.
Stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
garter stitch: all rows knitted.

G green,
F fawn ("oatmeal")
C coral
B brown ("rust")

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Beehive Shetland Floss.

I would substitute with a 4 ply - or even a fine double knit if I wanted to increase the size - however, moving to a fine DK or 5 ply weight at 6 sts per inch could move a 36 inch chest to as much as 42 inches. You have the added complication here that the chest size is dependent on rows to the inch not stitches - and only the latter is stated in the pattern. So - do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this, and vary your needle size.

The yardage of the original yarn is not available, and be warned that in some cases I have found that I needed one 50g ball for every ounce stated, even though an ounce is only 28g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please email me and I will try and assist.

Ringing the changes

If you want to choose different colours for the stripes - for example I would prefer a range of blues - I find it quite useful to use a weavers technique.
You simply wind your colours in sequence onto a piece of card (about 1 x 2 inches) to see how they fit together.

There is a good explanation >>HERE<<

Posted by Christina | Permalink | Comments (0)

Cosy Cornflower Baby Set II

This is a delightful set, which is easy enough to knit - but does involve some dedication for the embroidery!
Here we have instructions for the baby bag (or "bunting").
Although I have made this baby bag in the past - twice in fact - you might want to start with the blanket - or even try out a couple of squares - before you tackle the whole set.

Bag Instructions

The bag is worked in two pieces. The bottom one piece (front and back) is worked from Chart 1, with the back section in reverse stocking stitch.

The yoke and sleeves are worked following Chart 2, the left and right fronts being knitted separately, (bottom up); then the pieces are joined together, casting on some stitches for the back neck; the back is then continued (top down) as a single piece.

The coloured patterns are embroidered using "duplicate stitch" - which I know as "swiss darning" - on to the areas that are knitted plain (stocking stitch), as indicated on the charts. This is easier than trying to knit them in.

The bag is worked entirely in the white Aran yarn - the coloured DK yarns are used for embroidery and finishing.

Bottom section

Using white Aran yarn, cast on 160 stitches, and work according to Chart 1.

The charts are in a separate pdf file; you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save the pdf file.

[Editor's note: In the general way of patterns translated into English, this one leaves a lot to the imagination. If you are an experienced knitter and happy about reading charts (plus you can see from the diagrams at the end how the pattern pieces are supposed to look) then this is not particularly difficult project. However, to maybe help you avoid too much of the working out, I have added in some information below.]

Start knitting on the wrong side at the centre front (read left to right on the chart):
Foundation "1st" row (wrong side): k20, p6, k3, p10; place a stitch marker; k82; place a stitch marker; p10, k3, p6, k20. [160 sts]

On the 2nd row, increase the 6 stitches indicated for cable to 12 stitches.

Next "2nd" row (right side): p20, knit into the front and back of the next 6 stitches, p3, k10; slip the stitch marker; p82; slip the stitch marker; k10, p3, knit into the front and back of the next 6 stitches, p20. [172 sts]

You now have 172 stitches of which 1 is a border stitch on each side.

Next "3rd" row (wrong side): k20, p12, k3, p1, k9; slip the stitch marker; k82; slip the stitch marker; k9, p1, k3, p12, k20.

Next "4th" row (right side cable row): p4, k13, p3, cable over 12 stitches crossed to the left, p3, k2, p8; slip the stitch marker; p82; slip the stitch marker; p8, k2, p3, cable over 12 stitches crossed to the right, p3, k13, p4.

Next "5th" row (wrong side): k4, p13, k3, p12, k3, p3, k7; slip the stitch marker; k82; slip the stitch marker; k7, p3, k3, p12, k20.

Continue in pattern stitches as on Chart 1.
Work the pattern over the stitches up to the first stitch marker, and then after the second marker. The 82 stitches between the markers (for the back section) are worked in reverse stocking stitch ie the purl side is the right side.

When work measures 17 inches (the 21-row pattern has been repeated 5 times), k2tog across each cable, reducing them to 6 stitches. You now have 160 stitches.
So... 5 repeats of the pattern bring you to the 105th row, which is a wrong side row. You should execute the decreases across the cables on this last row, referring to Chart 1.
[Note that throughout the chart, the "21-row pattern" does not align with the cable repeats as they are repeated every 10 rows.
Note also that the "flag" pattern at the sides alternates over 10 rows and 11 rows to force it to align with the "21-row pattern".]

Next "105th" row (wrong side): k4, p13, k3, p2tog 6 times, k3, p8, k2; slip the stitch marker; k82; slip the stitch marker; k2, p8, k3, p2tog 6 times, k3, p13, k4. [160 sts].

Work in stocking stitch for 8 rows.
Rows 106, 108, 110, 112, (right side): knit.
Rows 107, 109, 111, 113, (wrong side): purl.

Cast off.

Yoke and Sleeves

Begin with LEFT FRONT, following Chart 2.

Cast on 36 stitches in white yarn, and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
At the right edge (right side facing), for sleeve cast on 26 stitches, and knit row 3 as on Chart 2, increasing in each of the 5 cable stitches to 10.
3rd row (right side): k7, p2, k7, p3, knit into the front and back of the next 5 stitches, p3, k9, p2, k9, p2, k9, p4. [67 sts]

You now have 67 stitches.

Continue in pattern up to row 25.
With wrong side facing, on the 26th row, start to shape the neck by casting off 4 stitches then pattern to the end of the row.
Continue to decrease at the neck edge on the following rows, 2 stitches twice, and 1 stitch 4 times.
[Editor's note: You can decrease 2 stitches at the end of a row, by knitting to the last 4 stitches then k2tog twice. To decrease 2 at the start of the next row, you can cast off 2.]

Continue in pattern as on the chart, and on row 40, cast on 2 stitches at the start of the row, ending row 40 with right side facing at the sleeve end of the row. You now have 57 stitches.
Place on holder and do not break the yarn.

Starting with a new ball of yarn, work the RIGHT FRONT reversing the shapings, and and crossing the cables to the left instead of the right.

Cast on 36 stitches in white yarn, and knit 1 row.
At the start of the second row, cast on 26 stitches, for the sleeve, then purl across 62 stitches.
3rd row (right side): p4, k9, p2, k9, p2, k9, p3, knit into the front and back of the next 5 stitches, p3, k7, p2, k7. [67 sts]

You now have 67 stitches.

Continue in pattern up to row 26.
With right side facing, on the 27th row, start to shape the neck by casting off 4 stitches then pattern to the end of the row.
Continue to decrease at the neck edge on the following rows, 2 stitches twice, and 1 stitch 4 times.
[Editor's note: To decrease 2 at the start of a row, you can cast off 2. You can decrease 2 stitches at the end of a row, by knitting to the last 4 stitches then k2tog twice.]

Continue in pattern as on the chart, and on row 40, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row, ending row 40 with right side facing at the neck end of the row. You now have 57 stitches.
Break the yarn.

Now join the 2 fronts, casting on 14 stitches between them.

Slip the stitches of the left front to the working needle next to the right front, and knit row 41.
41st row (right side): k5, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k5, p3, k10, p28; cast on 14 stitches, p28, k10, p3, k5, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k5. [128 sts]

You now have 128 stitches.

Continue in pattern.
When work measures approximately 12 inches (the 13-row design has been repeated 6 times), work 2 rows in stocking stitch, casting off 31 stitches at each edge, and knitting 2 together across each cable section.
You now have 66 stitches.
Cast off.

Hood

Cast on 72 stitches in white.
Work in reverse stocking stitch for 9 inches.
Place on stitches on a holder

Finishing

Attach the top of the bottom section to the yoke, slightly gathering the back of the bottom section. Make the seam on the 2nd of the 8 rows in stocking stitch. (The last 6 rows will roll onto themselves, forming a border between the yoke and bottom).
[Editor's note: You can tell from the dimensions shown (in centimetres) on the diagrams below that you need to ease the seams between the top and bottom sections to make them fit.]

Make the cuffs at the edge of each sleeve by picking up and knitting 39 stitches. Work 10 rows in reverse stocking stitch. Cast off.
Fold over these rows toward the inside and sew to sleeve.

Sew sleeve seams.

For neck finishing, right side facing, pick up and knit 66 stitches.
Work 6 rows in reverse stocking stitch. Cast off.
Fold hood in 2 and sew the back seam seam by grafting stitch by stitch.
Sew the hood to the body, leaving the 6th row of reverse stocking stitch on the outside of seam to form a rolled border.

Pick up and knit 125 stitches on each front edge, and 130 stitches around the hood; work 4 rows in reverse stocking stitch on 380 stitches. Cast off.

Sew in zipper.
Sew bottom seam.
Make 2 small pompoms in cerise DK yarn, and attach to the zipper tab.
Embroider the colour motifs as indicated on the charts.